Horseracing in Sri Lanka in Danger of Extinction

Whilst travelling through Sri Lanka and the beautifully secluded hill town of Nuwara Eliya, I stumbled across one of the most picturesque racecourses I have ever been to.

Nuwara Eliya is a small hillside town with the climate perfect for the growing and farming of tea leaves. The region is cooler than the rest of Sri Lanka, being of higher altitude, and is rich in luscious green shrubbery, serenading waterfalls and jaw-dropping valleys. Now picture a racecourse settled in the middle of all of that.

Whilst occupying Sri Lanka, Nuwara Eliya, or ‘Little England’ as it's popularly known, was one of the focal points for the British due it importance in the growing and then exporting of tea. Closely resembling the British climate, it also became a place where officials would seek respite from the soaring temperatures of elsewhere. Subsequently, for their enjoyment, the Nuwara Eliya racecourse was built in 1875.

View from the parade ring

The racing season hadn’t started yet when I visited but after speaking to Mr. Manjunath, the manager of the Royal Turf Club Sri Lanka, and after explaining my keen interest in the sport, we were treated to a tour of the track by the clerk of the course, groundsman, groom, marshal, tour guide and just about everything else that requires doing around a racecourse, Ignasus Lionel Ford (photographed below).

Mr. Ignasus Lionel Ford

Mr. Ford is a remarkable character and someone who knows no different than the Nuwara Eliya racecourse. Since working at the track at the age of fourteen, he has held nearly every role possible, yet he still expresses the same enthusiasm for the venue and the sport as he did thirty-five years ago.

“I love my job. An average day in the off-season sees me wake up at 05:00 to check the track and clear any rubbish that may have found its way onto it. By 06:00, I inform the trainers that everything is ok so that they can bring their horses onto the track to start their morning work.

“When training finishes at 09:00, I spend the rest of the morning gardening and by 14:00, after lunch, I manage the tours for interested visitors!”

Mr. Ford has become part of the furniture here at the Nuwara Eliya racecourse. Even his son is a successful jockey at the track, winning one of the most prestigious races of the racing calendar, the Governor’s Cup, not long ago.

Former champion filly, Miss Ivory, who now offers her services as a broodmare

The racecourse has also welcomed some esteemed guests in the past. None more significant than Queen Elizabeth II, who visited Sri Lanka, then called Ceylon, in 1954.

“I was not born yet but my Father said he saw Queen Elizabeth II visit the track. I hope one day King Charles will follow in his mother’s footsteps!” Said Mr. Ford.

However, the magnificent historical racecourse is in danger of running its last race amid fears of a financial takeover with no interest in sustaining racing in Sri Lanka, Mr. Manjunath explained.

“Despite The Royal Turf Club investing their funds, as well as sponsorships from local businesses, Nuwara Eliya racecourse is at risk of closing down.

“There were two other racecourses in Sri Lanka, one in Galle and the other in Colombo, but because they were not maintained during the civil war, the government took over and the racing never resumed.”

The white painted grandstand

The racing season is to soon start again in Sri Lanka, with two of their most famous races taking place this April – the Governor’s Cup on the 15^th and the Magic Millions on the 28^th.

When asked about the crowds and atmosphere they get on big race days, Mr. Manjunath could not hide his passion. He told us, “April festival season is the best month of the year! A great mix of people come from all over the country, one because it is a break from the heat being higher above sea level and two because of the fantastic racing on show.

“On race day, it’s free entry for all. We have fashion shows, many competitions and fun attractions so that everyone can get involved. It’s a fantastic carnival-like atmosphere!”

... And they turn into the home straight

Despite Mr. Manjunath’s spirit, racing in Sri Lanka could soon go extinct unless they can raise and sustain the funds to continue.

This would affect hundreds of local people who work at and visit the racecourse, as well as the trainers and horses themselves.

None more so than Mr. Ford, who, despite the uncertain future, remains hopeful. “I can’t read and I can’t write. I never went to school, but I ended up doing what I love every day. I believe when one door closes, another opens, so who knows what the future holds?

“I learnt from living and I’ve told the story of the course for many years now. I don’t know the ending of the story yet.”

A jockeys view from the starting gates

Over the years, the racecourse has evolved to keep up with modern demands. Mr. Ford fondly reminisced on some of the more traditional means of race management.

"Before, it was my job to judge who crossed the line first, judging from a wire by the finishing line. Also, we had eight judges all propped up on wooden stools evenly spread around the mile and a quarter track to make sure that there was no misbehaving from the jockeys.

"Now we employ a drone to provide us a bird's eye view into the jockeys conduct during a race as well as a camera to tell us exactly who finishes where. It's much easier!"

Mr. Ford standing next to the wire that used to help him decide the finishing order of races

Whatever happens to Nuwara Eliya racecourse, and Sri Lanka’s last surviving racecourse, it would be nothing short of a tragedy to see it fall to the waste side, or worse, developed into holiday homes, a hotel, shops or restaurants.

Perhaps, after introducing horseracing to Sri Lanka, the sport that we love and continue to support at home, the British Horseracing Authority (BHA) could look at initiatives to support overseas racing, especially in countries that were once under British occupation and that struggle to sustain the sport.

I couldn’t stay for long as I had plans elsewhere in Sri Lanka but one thing is for certain, I hope and pray that in writing this piece and spreading the awareness of what’s going on, that one day I can return to the 'Epsom of Sri Lanka' to see Mr. Ford and Mr. Manjunath and some good horseracing.