Welcome to Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka has been high on my list of countries to visit for some time now, and for good reason. For those who seek getaways that involve remote-island-style beaches, a wide array of tropical wildlife, adventurous jungle treks and a beautifully diverse and spiritual population, Sri Lanka is a must.

Waves crash on Tangalle Beach, Sri Lanka

We landed at Colombo airport around midday, only a short journey from Chennai in neighbouring giant India. Being Sri Lanka’s capital, largest and most populated city, we knew it would be busy. Immediately, however, it was clear that despite still being all of the above, it was nowhere near as overwhelming compared to the cities of its closest counterpart. Traffic seemed to flow at a smoother rate, pavements allowed for safer pedestrian movement and a wide display of shops, restaurants and European-styled bakeries lined the streets. Colombo being clearly less busy than places that we had previously visited provided a strong and assuring suggestion that the rest of the country would also host a calmer nature than what we had been used to.

The Lotus Tower overlooking Colombo's floating market, Colombo

We didn’t stick around long enough to explore Colombo as we caught a bus the day after we arrived to Badulla – the closest city to the small, remote jungle town of Sigiriya. We met a Sri Lankan native at the hostel in Colombo who advised us superbly of where and how to find the bus we needed. This was our first interaction that we had with a Sri Lankan local, which set the tone for what we were to expect from the rest of our time here. Not to give much away too early and being aware that I am generalising a whole population but the many people that we met during our time in Sri Lanka led us to come to the decision that the Sri Lankan people are confidently one of the kindest, genuine and most welcoming group of people we have ever met.

George in the jungle

Charming wild jungle towns and remote spiritual havens are synonymous with nomads who frequently travel through Southeast Asia. These types of places quickly became highlights of my previous trips to this region, for example Chiang Dao in Northern Thailand and Hue in Central Vietnam. Despite India being a wonderfully diverse country in climate and terrain, we did not explore its own jungles. That made my thirst for Sri Lanka even greater and what better way to start than in Sigiriya, a secluded town rich in ancient mythology engulfed by trees and wildlife for as far as the eye could see.

Locals working the land, Sigiriya

Immediately those feelings that had been suppressed by living in the west once again arose, a feeling that you are intensely immersed in and surrounded by untouched nature and wildlife. One would argue that this is how humans should live, as opposed to large concrete jungles. Kea and I looked at one another and smiled as for silently we knew that we both shared this same sentiment.

The next morning we strolled into one of the two main roads of the town for some breakfast. And barely a main road in comparison to elsewhere; half a dozen shops and restaurants at most. As we crossed a small bridge over a sweet brook we noticed a local man bathing an Elephant. Little did we know at the time that the Elephant was used as a human ferry for tours, which left a sour aftertaste. However, it was a potent introduction and reminder that we are deep in the home of the Asian Elephant, as well as many other animals.

The bathing Elephant, Sigiriya

Despite the circumstances, we were bewildered and besotted by the bathing Elephant, so we were extremely excited for our wild safari later that day. I thought we’d be lucky to see one, two or even a small few Elephants in the distance – I’d never been on a safari, so I wasn’t too sure of what to expect. Well, I didn’t expect what we were to witness. Whole families of wild Asian Elephants in their own home showcasing completely natural and raw behaviours you would only see on TV documentaries. At times we were within touching distance as the imposing yet careful beasts inquisitively wandered past, every individual crack and wrinkle of their tough armour-like leather skin visible to our naked eyes.

Papa showing off his tusks, Sigiriya

The elder males with their magical ivory tusks towered over the rest of the herd whilst the young calves charismatically played around in the shallow mud baths in an attempt to cool themselves down. Together the sometimes seven or eight large herd would make their way through the jungle, covering tens of kilometres a day and eating up to three hundred kilograms of grass, shrubbery and plants a day - nearly as much as myself and Kea on a hangover.

Mother feeding and baby bathing, Sigiriya

We also saw many different types of birds, Water Buffalo and insects. The highlight was a beautiful and imposing Changeable Hawk-Eagle that was scouting for prey whilst sitting statue-like on a long branch up in the canopy. At times it felt like we had front-row seats to a live version of Planet Earth with David Attenborough. It is a day that Kea and I will not forget for a very long time

How many Elephants can you spot?

Sweet like Kandy

After a three-hour taxi ride we arrived in Kandy, Sri Lanka’s second largest city. A place that combines Asian authenticity with European decadence. A large lake takes centre stage in the small hillside city and hosts a wide collection of wildlife – Water Monitors, many different species of fish, small Turtles, Cormorants, Kingfishers, Egrets and Herons.

Rest time for a Water Monitor, Kandy

However, when the sun begins to set and the darkness creeps in, a scene straight out of Scooby Doo starts to take place… Flying foxes wake up and begin their hunt for food. At first we stopped to admire what we thought was a mass exodus of extremely large birds, if not Eagles. When they began attaching themselves and hanging upside down from the branches of the trees that lined the water's edge, we realised that they certainly were not birds but something far more mencicing.

The sun reflects off the water, Kandy

Terrifyingly, we scarpered to a busier area to ask the locals about these imposingly wonderful creatures. Of course, they are harmless to humans and only ever eat berries, fruit and other plants but when you see perfect silhouettes, like the bat signal in Batman, by the dozen with wingspans of up to five feet, you can’t help but feel shivers down your spine.

A blurry Flying Fox snapped at dusk, Kandy

All of these animals, the ever-so traditional tuk-tuks, street markets and climate combined with the European-influenced architecture, roads and pavements and the bakeries make Kandy a unique place.

Next stop, home from home

After only one night in Kandy, we geared up for one of, if not the most famous, train journeys on the planet. I am talking about the Kandy to Ella train ride that vaneers through the stunning jungle-filled hills, over decades-old viaducts, through glorious natural tea fields and past several elegant yet powerful waterfalls. Of course we hung out of the door for those famous pictures (when the train only crawled along – we’re not that daring), but instead of taking the whole journey in one, we stopped off in a town called Nuwara Eliya, or ‘Little England’, first.

The rain falls on the old-school locomotive, Nuwara Eliya

Be on the lookout for my next blog where I will describe more of our stay in Little England as well as the most beautiful part of the Kandy to Ella train journey and also try to understand how Ella, a tiny town tucked away in the hills of Southern Sri Lanka, has become the most popular spot with Western tourists in the whole of Sri Lanka.